Ha long Bay was unlike any place I’ve been. Navigating through scenic limestone cliffs, emerald waters and beaches was like taking a journey through Neverland. I’ve always dreamed of going here and my expectations were high. Although it was beautiful, overall I was disappointed. It’s expensive, you’re surrounded by hundreds of people and the boats are on a strict schedule. There were things I enjoyed about it, but I’ll share what I would have done differently.
Ha Long Bay
There are many cruise options to choose from. The only difference is how luxurious the boat is. The prices were significantly cheaper haggling in person in Hanoi than what I looked up online. The most popular option is 2 days/1 night which goes to Thien Canh Son cave, a beach, kayaking, a pearl farm and a cooking class. In reality, it ends up being less than 1 day on the water.
Almost the entire 1st day was spent in a van, a souvenir shop and waiting at the harbor. Day 1 started with a 7am pick up and what was supposed to be a 3.5 hour bus ride from Hanoi to Halong Harbour. 
After stopping for a bathroom break at a tourists trap/souvenier shop for way longer than necessary, we arrived at the harbor 6 hours later. We then sat and waited for another hour and half for the other tour companies to arrive. We eventually started the tour a few hours before sunset. All of the boat companies left at the exact same time, with the same itinerary, racing to go to the same place. Day 2 consisted of breakfast at 7 am, a quick stop at a pearl farm and then back to Hanoi.
We actually did the 3 days/2 nights cruise. So when everyone was heading back, our tour continued. This is where the tour became much more enjoyable (the 3 day/2night cost $170 USD/person for a mid range cruise).
Lan Ha Bay
Day 2 continued on to Lan Ha Bay, Monkey island and beach, and a bicycle trip to a village on Cat Ba island. Lan Ha Bay was everything I imagined Ha long bay to be like and more! Lan Ha Bay, which surrounds Cat Ba island, had the same rock formations as Ha Long, a larger area to explore and no crowds. We pretty much had the bay to ourselves. The day finished at Cat Ba island where we stayed in a hotel for the night (included in the tour).
Cat Ba is almost entirely a National Park. We rode bicycles to a village and rented a scooter to drive through the national park. We also found a hide out hospital cave from the Vietnam War (or the American War as they call it).
If I could do it over, I would have skipped Ha Long and spent all my time on Lan Ha Bay. If you’re really set on going to Halong Bay, I suggest planning your own trip vs joining a group tour. You can make your own way to Ha Long Harbor and arrange a private boat to leave early in the day.
Pearl Farm at Ha Long
I’ve never seen a pearl farm before and it was very interesting to see how they’re made. They take a Mother of Pearl and make a round bead out of it. We watched them implant the bead into the oyster. Only about 10% of oysters here will accept the bead and turn it into a pearl. Each oyster is different and it will take 10- 20 years to make a pearl! They let us pick an oyster to crack open and the one we picked happened to have a pearl inside! It sounds planned, but they told us it was rare.
How To Get Here
Fly into Hanoi airport. The airport is 45 minute-1 hour drive from the city center. You can get there by taxi, uber or bus. An uber costs around $10 USD or it’s 30 cents by bus. There are buses every 20 minutes and they run from 5am-10pm (bus #7 and #17).
From Hanoi to Ha Long- if you’re part of a group tour, they will pick you up at your hotel in Hanoi. If you’re making your own way there, you can get from Hanoi to Ha Long Harbor by bus or private car. If you want to go to Lan Ha Bay, you can take a ferry from Ha Long to Cat Ba Island. From Cat Ba you can arrange a boat to Lan Ha Bay.
When To Go
Ha Long Bay can be visited year round. March, April, September and October are the best months because it’s not too hot. May-early September is hot and sunny, but it might be rainy or sometimes a typhoon.
You need to apply for a travel visa in advance. Some countries are eligible for an electronic visa (list of countries). I got my e-visa here for $25 USD.
If you’re from a country that’s not eligible for an e-visa, you need to apply for an approval letter for $20 USD. Once you arrive at the airport, present your approval letter to receive a Visa On Arrival for an additional $25 USD. You can only get a Visa On Arrival if you’re arriving by plane at an International Airport.
Make sure you have either USD or Vietnamese currency on you. When I was there, they only accepted cash in these 2 currencies.
Whether you’re applying for an e-visa or approval letter, make sure to start this process in advance because it takes at least 3 days to process.
I hope to go back soon and explore more of this gorgeous country. My favorite parts of northern Vietnam were Tam Coc, Lan Ha Bay and Ba Be National Park. Blogs coming soon. Thanks for reading. If you’re interested in other adventures in Southeast Asia, check out my other posts for tips. If you have any questions please email me. 🙂
